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Tea & Culture

Tea is a drink, but also a vessel of its land. What we write about here is the mountain, the mist, the measure of fermentation and roasting — and how people find the balance within them.

Terroir

Elevation is a tea's first character

Taiwan is mountainous, with climate zones stacked from sea level up to nearly 4,000 m at Jade Mountain. The height a tea tree grows at all but decides its temperament — low-elevation tea is mellow and direct, while high-elevation tea, shaped by wide day-night temperature swings and frequent mist, grows slowly and builds finer aromas and a deeper finish.

The so-called "high-mountain character" is no mystery. Mist reduces sunlight and softens bitterness; slow metabolism preserves amino acids, so the liquor turns bright and sweet. A mountain's aspect, its soil and its dawn-and-dusk mist all write themselves into the cup.

The same leaf, on a different mountain and in different hands, grows into an entirely different tea.

Fermentation is a dialogue between time and oxygen

From barely-fermented green tea, to lightly-fermented pouchong, semi-fermented oolong, heavily-fermented Oriental Beauty and fully-fermented black tea, Taiwan tea covers nearly every step of the fermentation spectrum. The degree of fermentation sets the direction of the aroma: lighter brings clear florals, heavier brings rich honeyed fruit.

Withering & moisture-drawing

Picked leaves go through sun- and indoor-withering, letting moisture slowly leave and the grassy notes transform. It's a gamble with the weather — humidity, temperature, wind — and the master judges by experience when to turn the leaves and when to let them rest.

The aftertaste of roasting

Roasting sets the key. A light roast keeps freshness; a heavy roast brings out charcoal warmth and body. Good roasting doesn't mask the tea's nature — it settles it, growing more compelling with age.

Tasting begins with time slowing down

Don't fuss over vessels and ritual. Smell the dry leaf first, then watch the colour; sip a little and let the liquor travel across your tongue, noting the turns of entry, mid-palate and finish, and whether sweetness returns to the throat. Tea, in the end, is for keeping company with daily life.

A tea's worth lies not in price, but in whether it honestly tells you where it came from.

FAQ

Taiwan tea, oolong & high-mountain tea Q&A

What is Taiwan tea?

Taiwan tea is tea grown and made in Taiwan. Its best-known style is partially fermented oolong, alongside green and black teas. The same cultivar can taste very different depending on the mountain, elevation, climate and processing, which is why Taiwanese teas are usually labelled by origin and method.

What is oolong tea, and how is it different from green or black tea?

Oolong is a partially fermented (oxidised) tea, sitting between unoxidised green tea and fully oxidised black tea. The leaves are withered, tossed, fixed, rolled and dried; depending on how far they are oxidised and roasted, oolong ranges from light and floral to ripe-fruit and roasted notes.

What is high-mountain tea?

It generally means partially fermented tea — mostly oolong — grown in gardens above 1,000 metres. Cooler air, frequent mist and shorter sunlight slow the bushes' growth, giving less bitterness and a clean, delicate fragrance. Main areas include the Alishan area of Chiayi; Zhushan, Ren'ai and Xinyi in Nantou; and Heping district in Taichung.

What is special about Alishan tea?

Alishan tea is high-mountain oolong from Meishan, Alishan and Fanlu townships in Chiayi County. It is usually made as a lightly oxidised, lightly roasted rolled oolong, aiming to keep the clean, sweet fragrance of the misty mountains. Further reading: our story “Raised by Mist”.

What is Lugu tea?

Lugu tea is tea made in Lugu Township, Nantou County — the home of Dong Ding (Tung Ting) oolong, with a long tea-making tradition. It is often a medium-oxidised, roasted oolong with a rich, sweet finish. The tea farmer GABA TEA works with hand-picks and sun-withers leaves in a Lugu garden at about 1,200 metres.

How is GABA (Gabaron) tea different from ordinary oolong?

For GABA tea, the fresh leaves are rested in a nitrogen-filled, oxygen-free environment during processing so they naturally accumulate gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA). GABA TEA's Gabaron tea is made on a Lugu, Nantou oolong base, tested at 357 mg GABA per 100 g for the submitted batch. It is an ordinary food and no health claims are made.

More Topics

Go further into tea

01

Brewing

泡一壺的分寸

How water temperature, leaf quantity and time adjust to each type of tea.

02

Vessels & Water

茶器與水

How gaiwan, Yixing clay and water quality subtly shape the liquor.

03

Seasons

節氣採製

Spring, summer, autumn and winter — which teas each is suited to.

04

Origin

產地溯源

From summit to tea house — how a single tea is recorded.

Which tea will you start with?